Jerusalem, part two

Friday, July 24, 2009

This is our last day in the country and amazing city so significant in the life and history of the Judeo-Christian world.

We spent the day in the old city of Jerusalem. We traced the approximate “Way of Suffering” (Via Dolorosa) of Jesus as he was taken to the place of the skull for execution. It goes through the narrow stone-paved streets of old Jerusalem which are even today alive with the frenetic sounds, smells and activities of thousands of pilgrims, hawkers, shop keepers, children, etc. We were supplied with a cross that pilgrims could take turns carrying though the street. We visited one monastery that recalls Pilate’s pronouncement; “Behold the Man.” Beneath, excavations have uncovered a few authentic paving stones from the time of the first century, including ancient markings of games of chance that the soldiers or others might have played. The other Stations of the Cross in this area memorialize traditional events in the last passage of Jesus by this route – His falling, encounters with Veronica, his mother and other women, meeting with Simon of Cyrene, etc.

The last five “stations of the cross” are located in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and include Jesus being stripped of his garments, crucified, his death, his removal from the cross and finally his being laid in the tomb. Words are too poor to describe this location. It is a disputed site of various branches of Christendom and indeed Muslim authorities hold the keys to the place. It has been honored for many centuries as the place of Calvary and the subsequent burial and resurrection of Jesus. The pilgrim traffic was intense and, for want of a better word, disquieting. The ambiance was dark. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of smoky candles gave a burned oil taste to the air. Human kindness was often strained as pilgrims jostled and jarred to make contact with the “holiest” places. Designated guardians confronted, urged, restrained or moved the pedestrian traffic according the needs of the moment. The experience did not significantly move my spirit and heart in a devotional way.

Shortly after noon we exited the shrine and made our way through the old city market to the coffee stand and snack bar of our tour director’s son where we enjoyed a more relaxed lunch and those who wished could browse and/or be abused among the numerous small shops that lined the sides of the streets.

In the afternoon we had an appointment at the “Garden Tomb.” It is owned and operated by the British “Garden Tomb Association.” It is a marked contrast to the so-called “Church of the Holy Sepulchre” and the bustling commercial area that surrounds it. The Garden park has been preserved and restored to be, still today, like a garden. It is located just outside the walls of the ancient city and has evidence of a wealthy person’s vineyard and garden including a large cistern and burial area with an unfinished tomb. There is also nearby an out crop of rock that resembles a skull. The area has been restored to a lovely quiet oasis in the midst of a hectic, throbbing city. Our guides here were British and the garden area has numerous places for groups to sit in the shade and meditate, worship or discuss. We were provided with one hour for our own private devotional. They will not let other guides speak in the Garden park. We sang the song from Mary Magdalene’s point of view, “I Come to the Garden Alone.” Also “Because He Lives,” “Up From the Grave He Arose” and others. We stretched ourselves by partaking of communion on a day other than the first day of the week, Lord’s Day. We had communion cups made of olive wood and found it to be an experience that, for some reason, moved many of us to the point of tears.

As I write this we are back in hotel. We must arise at 3 AM to begin our pilgrimage back to our homes in far away south Texas.

We recognize that it is certainly not necessary to make a trip to the Holy Lands to follow in the steps of Jesus. The affirmation of Christianity is that Jesus is our Salvation—it’s not a place, like the physical temple or the Holy Land; it’s not a book like the Holy Bible; it’s not in rituals, as important as they might be. It is Christ who is our Savior. And that is different from the other religions of world. And what a magnificent blessing that is. “It’s all about Jesus!”